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Pumori Expedition |
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The Mount Pumori Base
camp can be reached from Kathmandu –
Lukla flight; and then trekking via
Namche Bazaar, Thangboche – Pheriche and
Lobuche. Mount Pumori is 7145m. High and
ascent starts at 5,300m; which is beside
a beautiful small lake from here you can
get a beautiful sight of Mt. Everest and
Kalapthar at 5545m.
Camp 1: After a 3 hrs walk you will
reach camp 1 or advance base camp |
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5700m. After that you will have
to walk the distance of 500m with the Elevation
of 40 to 65 degrees slopes. Mount Pumori has
many rocks and mixed climb traverse, steep and
exposes to wind narrow ridges, some ice walls,
and one tunnel climb. Some times you may need
fixed ropes also.
Camp 2: It starts at 6200m. It is located on a
narrow ridge; so there is no fear of avalanches.
The next 400m, Is an ice climb with 35-65
degrees, more 5m, Is the Ice walls, many
crevasses, and the bigger avalanche danger from
big seracs hanging from the shoulder of 6500m.
Now camp 3: It is too windy. At the height of
6850m, from where you can see Tibetan plateau;
and you need rope here because of many crevasses
and ice walls way to summit. After that there
are two climbing ranges; one from Tibet side and
other is from Nepal side. Between these 2 sides
the Nepal side is easier to Mount Pumori Summit.
After this walk, the Summit is easy to reach on
it's vertex Pumori 7145m.
Normal route: This is the easier route to climb
this peak and most of the expedition coteries
climbed this peak so by applying this route. As
you know Pumori is not easy as like the other
mountains, there are difficult technical parts
in this route as well. We suggest you that, you
should take climbing Sherpa; and who will guide
you nicely to reach you on the top of Pumori.
You need to have at least 3 camps after base
camp to reach the summit. The base camp is just
above Gorek Shep at the altitude of 5300m. After
base camp, you can set up first camp at the
altitude of 5,650m, around the phase of Mount
Pumori .
You should set second camp at the ridge after
the phase at the altitude of 6,000m. The most
technical part for this peak is around camp 1
and 2. You should set camp 3 at the altitude of
6,480m, around the corner after the ridge.
You can ascend summit from the camp 3 to the top
of Pumori. Most of the climbers use this route
every year for the expedition to Mt. Pumori to
limb.
South - West ridge: Some very few climbers tried
this route, but it is very difficult route. This
route follows directly from the top of
Kalapathar and goes straight over the ridge
nearly by 75 Degree. As this route has lot of
technical difficulties; so we suggest you to use
the normal route for the Mt. Pumori and your
group will comfortably reach on its Top. For the
more information please check Himalayan Journal
1996 or American Alpine Journal 1997. |
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Itinerary of Pumori
Expedition in detail |
Days 01 :
Arrival Kathmandu & transfer to Hotel |
Days 02 :
Kathmandu- Prepare Expedition |
Days 03 :
Briefing expedition in Ministry of tourism |
Days 04 :
Flight to Lukla & trek to Phakding lodge |
Days 05 :
Phakding to Namche lodge |
Days 06 :
Namche rest for acclimatization lodge |
Days 07 :
Namche – Thyanboche lodge |
Days 08 :
Thyangboche – Pheriche lodge |
Days 09 :
Pheriche – Lobuche lodge |
Days 10 :
Lobuche – Pumori Base Camp - Camping |
Days 11 - 29 :
Climbing Period for Pumori 7145m. |
Days 30 :
Pumori BC – Pangboche -Lodge |
Days 31 :
Pangboche – Namche -Lodge |
Days 32 :
Namche – Lukla - Lodge |
Days 33 :
Fly Lukla – Kathmandu & transfer hotel |
Days 34 :
Kathmandu |
Days 35 :
Final departures |
Note :
Whatever the conditions the itinerary stated follow,
it is for the visitors who prefer full package
programme. At the same time, we also serve you based
on your choice. The selection of itineraries and the
staffs depends on your choice and financial
procurement. We have options for any partial visit
as per your requirement regarding your interest and
financial condition. |
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